Mini-bus from Kiev to Cherkassy

Mini-bus from Kiev to Cherkassy

July 1, 2011

June 28^th, we board the mini-bus in Kiev. The team, Maxine, Tetyana, Ann, Tony, and Gabriella, merges from several directions at the bus station with only minutes until departure. Our driver is a well-groomed man in his 50’s. He is an amazingly good driver. He is part of a driving culture that feels when a man is behind the wheel, it is a Grand Prix event. Only once in 4 hours, does he pull out to pass and calculate he can’t win this one. He passes on blind corners, blind hills, double lines. Nothing deters him. I decide like the Indians, “Today is a good day to die.” I worry no more. Although, I may have TMJ now from clinching my jaws.

Only an amazing downpour slows him. Tetyana and I get a kick out of his waves. He waves at every mini-bus and bus. His gestures varied from Grandpa Lister’s one finger wave to thumbs up and then down, to regular waves. We see no pattern unless he knows drivers on sight or is passing on info about highway patrol. He waves every 5 minutes, as the road is full of public transports.

Our mini-bus AKA NASCAR driver is a nice person. He loads our luggage with care. His is willing to open the luggage area at our break so that I can put another small bag in the back. While attempting to gracefully re-enter my seat and adjust my legs with the added legroom, I knock off the rear-view mirror. When he returns and I gesture my deed and apologies, he merely shrugs and tosses it on the dashboard. All is well. Back on the road, I now have enough room to shift my feet a bit now and then; although, I still must move my leg to allow for each shift of the gears. (Think your thoughts, Grandma Burt.) Our driver has Christian Orthodox icons on his dashboard. He smokes 2 cigarettes during our brief pit stop, AND he sees no need for seat belts. I try to reach between us to secure mine again after the pit stop, and he took it from me. Maybe, he thought I was enjoying feeling around his bottom too much--- just kidding, Vern. Thus the rest of the NASCAR event is especially daring because of no seat belt!

The highway is busy especially as we leave Kiev. It takes some time to arrive at the city limits. The road surface is fine until about half-way to Cherkassy then it is a Montana pot hole quality. Praise God for 2 things 1) I don’t get car sick any more 2) Tetyana and I are the last to board and we’re “blessed” with front seats next to the driver.

Ukraine as we have been taught was the breadbasket of the Soviet Union. Golden (yes in June) wheat fields stretch out on either side of the highway. There are also sunflower fields, potatoes, carrots, and summer squash (used to feed pigs). At times the highway is tree-lined, refreshing view after so much city life. Due to this beauty and constant life-threatening events, to which as I mentioned I have a front row seat, I choose not to sleep the entire trip as I had previously planned. However, exhaustion takes hold, and I trustingly close my eyes to dream of home. An unusual amount of swerving wakes me. Both his hands are off the wheel (or rather through the wheel) as his clumsy fingers fumble to unwrap a piece of hard candy. Fear or kindness motivates me to hold my hand out in an offer to unwrap it for him. He gives me a questioning look, and then hands me a piece of candy and then one for Tetyana next to me. We all laugh.

The approach to Cherkassy is breathtaking as the city sits on the edge of a huge man-made lake (sea). I know I am going to love this place. The sun is setting as we drive the 2-mile land dike across the lake.

However, this euphoria ends abruptly as we are shown our housing accommodations. “Uncle Clermont lived here!” is my gut reaction. I will save the unsavory details for another journal. Til then, enjoy your washing machines, clean sheets on beds and sweet smelling, recently cleaned homes.

On assignment in Ukraine -- Maxine

Kiev, Ukraine

June 26, 2011 HAPPY BIRTHDAY, GORDY!

Kiev, Ukraine

1:30 Kiev time

Arrive with the team. Say goodbye to Vern, Robin, Sanna, and Aiste. Slava and I maneuver our way slowly through customs. My suitcase arrives safe and sound. Slava negotiates a taxi for me and then I am on my own. It is rainy and cool.

Tense moment for me as the taxi speeds away from the airport but then the fun of fear and challenge take over. Looked up my Russian for “200” (the top price Slava told me to pay) and the words “too expensive.” Sure enough he tried to charge me 288. We went into the hotel lobby so he could get the clerk to help him. But I stood firm and paid him the 200 after a long battle. 200 would be equal to $25.00 US. My hotel room cost me 270 for a night or about $35.00 US. How quickly my 500 whatevers went. I choose the less expensive room in the unrenovated part of the hotel. It is clean, small bed no mattress cover (ick), a desk, a little TV, phone, funny shaped shower/tub but it is deep like Japan. Door jam looks like it has been broken into a few times …. However, I like the feeling of going cheap. It is a 3 star hotel according to the website.

The hotel boasts a fine Korean restaurant with a panoramic view of the city and wifi. I acquire a city map from the concierge and head to the restaurant. Oops. Rather expensive. I have fried rice with seafood and fried dumplings (gyoza) and a couple cups of what seems to be instant coffee. But the view is worth the high price. I can see golden domes across the Dniper River. Just think here I sit by the Dniper River. Big stuff for this Montana girl. As for the WiFi, I am destined to stay disconnected these days. No internet much since Thurs and this is already Sunday. I content myself with writing a letter to be mailed when the Lord opens the WiFi sky and lets me hear from you and visa versa.

Tomorrow, I hope to take a double-decker 2-hour bus tour of Kiev. Quinn and I did that in Dublin and loved it. It is a great overall way get to know the place.

Vern is eager to be “home” in Klaipeda. (Sanna overheard his comment and noted that it was pretty interesting that he felt “home” to be a little country half-way around the world from Montana.) No more roaming for him. He did indeed enjoy his trip and time in Kazakhstan. He was a tremendous help to all of us. Great person and well liked by the students. He shipped home the few souvenirs I bought. Cost us $80.00 US. The shipping office opened our box and took out each item and weighed it and then repacked the entire box in a new box. Vern reports that they found my purchase of a painted rock to be quite humorous and interesting to them. What can I say? It had a yurt on it! Shipped it to 1280 – heads up to the Ponds living there.

The English Summer School collaboration between Senior English Center of Shymkent, Kazakhstan and LCC was a huge success. Both parties agree that it will happen again. We had over 90 students. Next summer they hope to have it in the mountains at a camp with basketball, volleyball, and lake. So who wants to meet me there? We will need teachers as well as camp staff for fun activities. Ben, should I count you in??? [And after the camp, I promise to come home.] I feel good about my contributions to the 2-week program. My teaching, organization, and interactions were all blessed by the Lord. May His name be glorified. LCC has potentially 5 new students as a result of this outreach. Each one who comes to LCC will begin to learn what it means to be a Christian. Please keep them in your prayers. Many of the Senior regular students who attended the 2-weeks said that the courses set them free. They now have confidence to speak with a native speaker and at last can get their mouth to open and speak. Thus, Senior gained happier and more eager students of English. In addition, they offered a unique English language learning opportunity in all of Shymkent.

The trip from Shymkent to Kiev was long and exhausting. We left our apartment in Shymkent at 3:30 AM on Saturday. The train left about 4:30 and had an hour delay along the way. We sat forever in the middle of nowhere. But when we finally moved, we could see why. A cargo train had gone off the tracks. Workers and equipment were everywhere. We could see the torn up tracks and damaged cars. Our train moved past at a snails pace as we missed some wrecked cars by only inches. Huge cranes were holding the wrecked cars away from our track. Pretty sobering really. Thus we arrived after 9 PM in Almaty, went to the Bible Institue, walked to a grocery, and then back to finally have our dinner. Off to a sleepless night and then up at 4 AM to catch our flight, arrived at Kiev about 1 PM on Sunday. The team still had a 4-hour layover and then a 2-hour flight and then a 6-hour bus ride to Klaipeda. I consider myself lucky.

Tony and Ann (my new team from US) will arrive later this evening. I think we have a plan to meet tomorrow at breakfast. I will leave a note for them at the desk. I will go to bed early since I have a 3-hour time change to adjust to. Tony and Ann have been traveling for 2 weeks in Europe. We will tour Kief together before heading to Cherkassy for 3-week English program. Please pray for Kelly a team member who found out on Friday that her doctor will not allow her to come to Ukraine. Pray also for the team of 4 that we will be able to manage without her. Trusting God on this one.

Enough for now. Grew tired at the end of the English school. Temperatures were reaching into the 100’s and survival took all my strength and energy. It was all wonderful and ended so well. I hope to regain the umph to share that with you.

Love and miss you all,

Maxine

Scouting

Scouting

June 22, 2011

Shymkent, Kazakhstan

Today is Weds. Two more days of classes and the English Summer School 2011 is history. We are tired, but we can finish well.

I find many of the skills used on pack trips serve me well on a trip like this one. The adventure is quite similar to me. Finding the best places to fish, to camp, to tie the horse, where the berries are. How can I make something out of nothing etc.

I love scouting out the place, so I look for opportunities to shake off the rest of the team and set out on my own. Several, like Vern, have no sense of direction so I allow them along as they will not interfere with my need to lead. These types are happy for someone who can get them safely from here to there. It is like leading the pack string, more fun and adventure than being in the middle of the caravan with your horse’s head hanging down plodding along. I have found some wonderful souvenirs on my outings. I took a fun photo of an older woman serving milk on the street with her grandson. I show her photos of my grandchildren. It is nice. These times on my own are my favorite times. I am thankful for my good sense of direction and spirit of adventure. 

One night we were having a party and there was no serving bowl for the salad so I cut off the top of a plastic gallon water jug and it became a nice bowl. I am comfortable in my bus catching and riding. I know the etiquette and cost and routs now. I can readily pick which bus goes to the shopping places I like and need. Where can I find office supplies, gifts, food, good toilet (ie not squatty). I can order a coffee with ice and ice cream. I know how to safely cross the street. In our shower there is a certain spot to put the faucet so that hot water comes at full speed. Little challenges have been overcome. It is almost times to travel on to the next world of unknowns.

I would love to describe the sights and sounds of the street but I just do not have the words to describe the overload of sensory perceptions – sights, sounds, smells. Every foot is an entire scene of its own. The next space is from another age or strata of society. It is just overwhelming to experience. I will try to get a photo and then section by section describe. Top of the line sun glasses next to a tumble down vender’s shack with hot plate and pan with oil waiting your order. Woman on a ancient stool dressed in old clothes with a bucket on the ground with milk for sale. Just ladle some into a bowl, Drink and return the bowl for the next person. A dozen fashionably dressed young man hanging outside the cell phone store texting and sharing numbers. On and on it goes.

The bus is old and motor sounds like it will drop out the bottom. All the people on the bus are nicely dressed and clean. Such dichotomies. Impossible for me to comprehend the levels of economic recovery and growth that can be seen in one glance.

Continues to be hot probably over 100 yesterday as I road the bus and then walked home. THANK you, Lord for the AC when I arrive at the apartment. 

June 6 Almaty, Kazakhstan

Monday, June 6 in Almaty

Vern is up very early 6AM. I get up around 8 and call Aiste and Tadas before 9 to join for breakfast. I have made tea and sliced bread. However, sometime later we have breakfast that they prepare, eggs, bread and lots of tea.

Our host accompanies us to the block to the main road and negotiates the destination and price for us. We all hop in. Vern is nearly left by the road as the driver starts to pull into traffic before Vern can get in. Odd since Vern has the door open on the driver side. Did he even look in his mirror before pulling into traffic?

This would be a good time to describe the taxi system. There are very few official looking taxis. Taxi service is not regulated. Many use it as a way to earn money. Some pick you up just because they are going your way and others will take you wherever you wish to go. They drive like the car is a weapon and they are at war, in and out, around, between with horns honking. I think Daniel and Ben would enjoy driving in this country. They would make good money.

It is a long ride from the Bible Institute to the Ice Rink at the edge of the mountains. Maybe 50 minutes. We opt to board the tram first and get as high up as we can and catch the ice rink on the way back. Aiste finds out that Vern is free. He just shows his driver’s license to prove he is over 65. Up we go. Scary heights. It is an enclosed.  We notice so many trees are down and calculate it was a big snow slide or heavy spring rain but later learn that the area was hit with tornado level winds just a few weeks earlier. What a pity as about 50@ of the trees are down. Rangers on horseback are heading into to the mountains to work on situation. I don’t know if they are clearing trails or what.

At the top is the now bare ski slope. Although Almaty bid for the winter Olympics, this ski area is far from ready for such an undertaking. Much of it is old and much is under reconstruction. There are many new “chalets” built along the road the comes to the slopes. Some of the roofs have been damaged by those falling trees. Aiste and Tadas want to climb up higher and we are content to ramble around the area. I am disappointed that there are no souvenir shops.

Vern and I sit by the ski school shack in the shade. When we leave, we find two women have chose the other side of the shack for nearly nude sunbathing. Oops. We go to a place to get something. But each item on the menu is not available. Out of the desserts only one is available, chocolate. We are served a Mars bar on a plate. Lol.  Later when Aiste and Tadas return, we enjoy sushi.

Then we head back down the mountain having seen the “ice” rink has no ice we save ourselves the walk. Aista finds a taxi by hanging her arm out and negotiating with the drivers until she is convinced we have a good price.

Next we go through some walking streets where local “artists” have their work. At last we get more money from the ATM. Take another taxi to a park, then another taxi to another park. It is getting late. We head to the mall. At the food court we have Pizza Hut, KFC, Hardees, Chinese and Japanese food etc. Vern has KFC. I am not hungry. WE grab some groceries for the train trip tomorrow. This time we know just where to guide our taxi and arrive home again nearing mid-night.

Long night. Vern is up often. We sleep in until 10. Eat breakfast. Pack and eat lunch with the whole staff. The office lady takes us in the van to the train station where we wait for aiste to go and bring the others to us. I head out to shop in an adjacent small mall. Fun shopping and get some good stuff for our trip and a few items for life in Shymkent.

Riding the Train in Kazakhstan - June 7

June 7, 2011

On the train.

Good thing I have a computer because I would not be able to write legibly as we rock and sway our way across the southern edge of Kazakhstan between the cities of Almaty and Shymkent.

We board our train and each of us find our compartments. Compartments are for two and contain two bunks (soft) and an 18 by 24 shelf upon which I am typing. We slip my suitcase under the lower bunk, hang our grocery bags from hooks, lift smaller back packs to a high rack and we settle in. Sanna has found we have Internet, so I send a quick note home to the kids.

The train is similar to the trains that took us from Hong Kong to Beijing in 1985. It is not as wide as there is no place to sit in the aisle and look out. The outside is baby blue. AC has not been invented and there are only occasional opening windows in the aisle. The air does not circulate thought our compartment. We have been provided lots of quilts. Could it possible get cold at night? One could hope.

I remember now that I love riding the train. For the moment I am happy with my own company. Everyone is sleeping including Vern. It is 6 in the evening. The heat I think has everyone without energy. Plus many traveled all night or arrived at 1 AM. As is often my habit, I fell asleep while the train was still in the station in Almaty and slept a couple hours. Feel refreshed now.

Slowing. There are buildings – pink. Sheep along the tracks have the longer necks and floppy ears. I could be any where. Mexico? Browning? Hot, poor. Lots of cement here and corrugated tin. Nice green trees here in town. Women along the track with baby carriages transformed into catering service for us travelers. I see nice drinks. I want. We have only water left.  Dogs sleeping along the station. Station is small brick. I jump off like others and buy a nearly totally frozen drink. It is peach lemonade and the cold feels so good this hot train ride.

At last a few interesting things dot the forsaken surroundings. A herd of sheep, always multicolored can be seen along with the shepherd on horse back. But where is the ranch house? And what are those interesting looking small structures with iron fences around them? A type of cemetery perhaps?

1 AM The question has been answered. No it doesn’t cool off, at least not much. Insomnia is the same anywhere unless I take a moment and think of a map and see my little train progressing across a southern path in Kazakhstan. A contented smile crosses my weary face.

Kazakhstan is a country of which I had little knowledge until recently. Even now I know so little and have so many questions. Others share what they have been learning in preparation for our trip. The book Apple is for Kazakhstan is being passed around in our group. I think Vernon might read it next. Soviet destruction of farming lands and random atom bomb testings are two of the interesting facts.

2 AM It is raining. Oh to sleep as I must rise in a few hours and start life as a teacher. More fears that I won’t do well. More fears of the heat. But it IS raining. Be still my soul and walk with your hands in His. 

First Impressions -- Kazakhstan June 7, 2011

First Impressions:

(June 7, 2011)

Table napkins are the size of a section of toilet paper and almost as thin.

Toilet paper at the train station is similar to sand paper – much like China.

At the Bible Institute, you pour hot water into your tea cup and then add strong tea (probably made and cold now) to your liking. Large cereal bowls are filled with a course sugar of uneven color. People add 3=4 small spoonfuls to tea.

Women are not as scantily dressed as Lithuania. I have only spotted one woman in a burke in Almaty.

Population of Almaty seem sto be predominantly Asian looking. They range from Japanese looking to Blackfoot Indian looking.

Around town people are very friendly and nice. Lots of happy children. Poverty is not readily evident. In fact, the grocery store had more products – such as marshmallows and saltines than Lithuania. Prices are reasonable in the restaurants.

June 10, 2011

If there were law suits here, lawyers would be in hog heaven. The sidewalks are more than uneven. Real holes appear regularly. There is a 2-foot deep, cement ditch running along the road --- between the road and the side walks. One needs to be alert not to step into it.

The pedestrian does not, I repeat, does not have the right of way.

Buses are independently owned. That is to say each bus may be owned by a different person. So the money collector hangs out the door and shouts. I presume they are letting people know all the places they will be stopping. It costs about $.20 to ride the bus. In Lithuania it costs $.90.

When I get on the bus, usually someone will quickly stand up and insist I have his/her seat. Do I look that old? So polite and nice really.

Can’t remember if I mentioned the “taxi” system in Kazakhstan. There are very few vehicles that look like a taxi. Often the ones that do are the most eager to cheat the unsuspecting tourist. However, anyone is legally permitted to pick people up. Like I am driving to town, so I just give someone a ride and help pay for my gas. Or I earn my living by picking people up. Or somewhere in between. To catch a “taxi” stand out into the street a little and hang your arm out --- about 45 degree angle from the body. Soon a car will pull up. The traveler tells where they want to go and then bargains over the price. If the driver is agreeable, get in. If not, another “taxi” will be along in a minute or two. Vernon and I have yet to attempt this on our own.

The country/city is not prepared for tourist. We have yet to find one stinking postcard to send our family and friends!

The people here loving and friendly. During a recent grocery mission, there were about 3 workers going around with us trying to help us find our items. One young man would look at my list and then head off to find it then come back and get us. He eventually gave me a pencil so I could properly cross off the items we had fun --- how sweet. We never did find regular pepper, but he knew right where the Comet was!

June 12, 2011

Kazakhstan time is similar to Rez time. Nuf said.